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A tomato left alone on the counter improves. Note the method

was: “‘Proof that delicious tomatoes can be grown in the UK’: the best supermarket vine tomatoes, tasted and rated

Among the star ratings and the gadget readings, the article buries the only sentence a household requires: leave the tomato on the countertop and it ripens toward excellence; put it in the refrigerator and you ruin it. Patience improves the fruit. Convenience destroys it. The tomato, in short, has retained the values.

Mark also where the flavour lives. The champion grows on the Isle of Wight — an ISLAND, wind-tested, ferry-served. Honest Essex takes the value crown. Meanwhile the pampered Sicilian import, chauffeured fifteen hundred miles in compostable film, arrives 'watery and mild'. Soft transport makes soft produce. It is the same law as for sons.

A grandfather would ask one question of this entire exercise: why are you BUYING tomatoes? A packet of seed costs less than the worst punnet in this test. A tomato vine wants soil, water, a stake to lean on, and your attention each evening — which is to say, it wants what everything worthwhile wants.

Grow six plants. Eat what ripens. Give the surplus to the neighbour whose fence you share, and speak of the weather while handing it over. That is the entire supply chain, and it has never once been recalled. Sow. Then rest.

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